A Quick Guide to Varanasi

Visiting Varanasi was a huge priority for me when I started planning my trip to India. Alongside witnessing the Taj Mahal, and drinking all the masala chai tea in the country, it was high on my list of musts. From everything I’d heard and read online, Varanasi was the place in India that left the biggest impression on people. After spending two days in Varanasi, I can absolutely see why.

How to Get There

Personally, I arrived via overnight train from Agra. Sleeping on an overnight train in India will give you a true local experience, if that’s what you’re after. Even if it’s not a sleeper, you may still want to arrive via train. The train ride will take 9 hours in total, and some “elite” trains will serve a meal on board. There are three train stations in Varanasi, so make sure you know which one you’ll be arriving to.

Otherwise you can arrive via bus or plane. Of course, flying is the most expensive option, but even so it’s managable. There is a daily, direct flight from Dehli to Varanasi with a flight time of 1 hour and 20 minutes. This option will cost anywhere from 2500 – 6000 INR {approx. $35 – 85 USD}.

Buses are also a comfortable option, though it will take you 18+ hours to reach Varanasi from Dehli. If you are arriving from a closer destination, this may be the way to go. You can read more about how to get to Varanasi here.

How to Get Around

Like everywhere else in India, tuk tuk rides are available and the most convenient way to get around. A tuk tuk ride from Varanasi Train Station to the Ghats will take you approximately 20 minutes.

Where to Eat

For breakfast, stop by the New Bread of Life. The ambiance is rustic and authentic, but not in a dirty, run down way. It’s Insta-worthy, plus serves somewhat of a Western-style breakfast {a must for me!}. Easily accessible from the Ghats, stop by Bread after morning yoga for a hot chocolate {recommended by a local}. A standard breakfast here costs 250 RP {approximately $3.50 USD}.

If you are looking for a true local experience, visit El Parador. This restaurant is family owned, and by family owned I mean literally the parents and their two children run the entire restaurant. The father is Nepalese,anda former chef, so everything on the menu is guaranteed to be tasty. After laying my eyes on nearly nine different meals, and having one myself, I can vouch for the quality of food. All the ingredients are extremely fresh, and cooked basically in front of you.

You can find the best malasa chai in India within walking distance from Varanasi Train Station. Down a rather inconspicuous road {see the map below} you’ll run into a man stirring a large metal pot over a live flame. Inside the pot is some of the best masala chai I had in India. The chai is served in terra-cotta clay pots and costs only 10 RP {approximately $0.15 USD}.

The Ghats

The first time I walked the Ghats, it felt as though I had gone back in time nearly 1000 years. Honestly, it was like walking along a movie set. To this day, it’s the most unique destination I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting.

The Ghats in Varanasi are famous for narrow walkways, large crowds, and of course, the cremations of loved ones. Therefore, don’t be surprised if you see a covered dead body being carried towards the river on a {kind of} stretcher. It’s absolutely normal, and expected.

You can also expect to see naga babas: essentially, naked men covered in ash. Yup, that’s right. They are said to be “higher up” {no pun intended} than the rest of us mortals walking amongst the earth. Apparently, they don’t feel, well, anything. One could assume it’s the drugs they take, but hey, I don’t question it. It’s India.

If you have a desire to practice yoga in India, Varanasi is the place to be. Each day, a free 30-minute yoga session is hosted on the Ghats. You’ll have a view of the river, if it’s not coated in the early morning fog, and be able to follow along with an instructor speaking Hindi. It’s simple enough to watch what others are doing around you, so don’t worry about the language barrier.

The Ganges

The Ganges River runs parallel to the Ghats, and is known to contain the holiest water in all of India. People come from miles away to be cremated in the Ganges. In fact, some people arrive to the Ghats waiting to die on the street, just so someone will pick them up and cremate them. It all sounds quite morbid, but actually it’s a beautiful process and something people celebrate.

The first night I arrived in Varanasi, my group boarded a wooden boat at sunset to witness the prayer ceremony. On our way, we saw many cremations, and even saw a dead body {not cremated} floating in the river. As you can imagine, the Ganges is not for the faint of heart. That being said, the priests in Varanasi put on a touching ceremony each night, in honor of the dead.

You can easily forget you are floating on a river of ash as you watch them chant beneath colorful lights.

On my second day in Varanasi, I took a sunrise boat ride along the Ganges. It was the most spiritual experience I’ve ever had. Watching the smoke and ash rise from the Ghats as the sun peaked through the clouds was surreal. I can still feel the warm breeze that carried the birds from boat to boat in the distance.

Eventually, a soft mist rose above the surface of the water, creating a mysterious ambiance along the entire river. Locals were bathing in the holy water, fires were burning in preparation for the morning cremations, and sunlight hit the Ghats perfectly.

There are plenty of guides tempting you to jump in their boats along the Ghats, so don’t feel the need to book ahead. That being said, you may want to do some research about pricing, as I can imagine there is a standard going rate. Along the river, I saw boats with as little as two passengers, to nearly 25+. At one point, there was even a luxury yacht on the river… but I can’t recommend that for an authentic experience.

The Prayer Ceremony

Each night the priests in Varanasi perform a prayer ceremony to honor the dead. It lasts for a total of 30 minutes, and can be seen from the Ghats themselves, or a boat on the Ganges. You’ll be in good company either way, as large crowds gather from each vantage point. The prayer ceremony begins at 8:00 PM, once the sun has gone down.